A
Uganda Gorilla Tracking Experience: The Rushegura Family of Buhoma
Very
few things in life can be compared to a gorilla tracking experience. From the
hike through the thick undergrowth of the dense mountain tropical rain forest,
to the excitement of finding gorilla nests, from listening to the forest sounds
to the exhilaration of spending what seems like fleeting seconds in the company
of gorillas, every moment of a gorilla tracking experience is thrilling.
Tracking
mountain gorillas is a once in a lifetime experience that can only be done in
Bwindi Impenetrable, Virunga or Mgahinga ranges national parks in Uganda or
Rwanda. Yes, you can also track the gorillas in the Congo but it could cost you
and arm and a leg! Literally!
This
gorilla tracking experience in Uganda took us all the way to Buhoma in Bwindi. We
set out to track in Buhoma which was the first tracking point of gorillas in
Uganda some 26 years ago. On the morning of tracking, we had a briefing at the
UWA headquarters at 7:30am. After being told the dos and don’ts, the rangers made certain we were all well
prepared with proper clothing and food and drink for the trek. We set out into
the impenetrable forest in a group of eight accompanied by two armed rangers
and three porters from the community.
We
made our way through the lush forest on a chilly morning with the lead rangers
cutting away at the thick undergrowth with a machete. We jumped over streams
and treaded through the mud, the hiking boots and long trousers quickly getting
muddied. The long sleeved shirts came in
handy as well, as the thorny vines intently scratched against us.
No
sooner had we started to enjoy the hike than we heard the signal of the rangers
to halt. And in an instant the melodic forest sounds were interrupted by
rapturous noises from moving branches. In no time we were surrounded by
numerous juvenile gorillas. As we gathered ourselves in the face of unrelenting
excitement, the number of gorillas in sight increased. First we could see
three,then five, then ten and eventually we could see all 23 gorillas of the
Rushegura family. This was one of the oldest gorilla families in Bwindi and with such a big number of individuals it had still managed to avoid a split that noramlly happens when the family number hits 16.
As
the sun rose and started to pierce through the forest canopy, everything came alive. The juvenile gorillas skipped
about with little care as the mother gorillas carried the babies on their
stomach. Our guides did a good job to keep us at the recommended 7 metre
distance from the gorillas but, the restless juveniles were not having it. They
seemed quite excited by our presence so they kept on leaping up and down onto
branches. The gorilla family slowly moved out of the park and towards the nearby lodge and
before we knew it, we had followed them to the veranda of one of the cottages
where we sat with the gorillas.
We
set about taking photos being very careful not to use the flash. As luck would
have it, the sun was out so the photos were much easier to take than the last
time. In an instant we saw the silverback, siting arms crossed with an unmistakable
quiet confidence. He occasionally signalled at the juveniles to behave as he
starred at us as though to tell us he was the boss. The mother gorillas nursed the babies and made sure the babies were always safely tucked onto them.
The
one hour we were allowed elapsed in what felt like an instant but the rangers
allowed us a few extra minutes which in the excitement of the moment felt like seconds.
And then it was all over. We didn’t have to walk very far back to the briefing
point as the gorillas had moved out of the park and to near where we started.
We returned to a certificate of participation from Uganda Wildlife Authority
and then returned to the lodge to enjoy the glorious views of the impenetrable
forest.
But as we say at The Tourist Centre
Uganda Safari offices, words don’t do the gorilla
experience justice. You have got to do it yourself!
For more information on gorilla
tracking safaris see:
http://www.touristcentresafaris.com/gorilla-safaris.html
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